I have been lazy. In the past 3-4 years, as construction on Soma progressed, and my son moved away for college, I have found it more and more difficult to go surf here in the Bay area.
When Billy was younger and learning his way in the water, we would go almost every weekend, to the Jetty in Half Moon Bay, or to Lindamar in Pacifica, or to Ocean Beach in San Francisco. I recall one summer we surfed almost every day at our own little secret spot, a beachbreak off one of the streets in Half Moon Bay.
Once he was in high school, Billy and I had some unreal days at Ocean Beach. It was big, cold, powerful, a horrendous paddle, but we loved every minute of it.
We bought our Nicaraguan property during Bill’s senior year, and I then began spending every summer in Las Salinas. Even though I was tutoring kids and teaching Tae Kwon Do at the local dojo, I surfed almost every morning, either at Popoyo or the Guasacate beachbreak. And the warm water, consistent waves, offshore winds, and close proximity spoiled me.
Billy went away to Pepperdine, and slowly I stayed away from Ocean Beach for increasing lengths of time. When we visited Bill in Malibu, I always brought a board and we had some fun sessions at Zuma or County Line. But that was the only time I put on my wetsuit.
Now Bill has graduated and is working in Santa Monica. And my wetsuit continues to hang in the closet.
I did go visit him this past weekend. We surfed El Porto twice, 3 hour sessions each day. The waves were small, the weather was beautiful.The sun was out, there were dolphins. At times I found us just floating with the rip, talking about anything, reminding ourselves how happy we were at that moment. The moment of totally being in the here and now. I used to surf by myself a lot, years of dawn patrols at Salt Creek, and I could find that moment almost every time I was out. Now, I don’t know if it’s old age, having our family spread out, or just plain laziness…
I still check all the surf reports and forecasts daily on Surfline. I check the Nicaragua Surf Report (NSR) every evening. But I can’t motivate myself to drive over the hill for a quick sunset session. Maybe, at age 58, this is not unusual…or maybe I am making excuses.
In the back of my mind, I know I will soon be back down surfing in Nicaragua, for the entire summer. Billy will be coming down in June for a week. And I realize it is a special and spiritual thing for me; a father sharing the waves, the ocean, the moment with his son.
So I guess I’ll go to the gym and wait for June…
Owner Soma Surf Resort
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